25 years old, distilled 28th November 1989, 51.6% abv, refill ex-bourbon barrel, 168 bottles

(This dram was exclusively available at the Vaults in Leith. But in London we're resourceful, and managed to get hold of some anyway.)

The nose has apricot and peaches, with a little pine needle and some soft tobacco. The body is light and has a little cling. There's a little waxiness on the palate - wax jackets, peaches, red apples and a little grassiness towards the back of the mouth. The finish is freshly cut grass and waxed jackets.

Water brings out thin, very long lasting whorling that doesn't settle into mottling easily, but perseveres as lines for a surprising time. The nose has lost the tobacco and pine needle, but gained a hint of menthol. It's lighter and sweeter, with a little butterscotch and the same fruits. The body has a little lemon, and less waxiness. There's still the peaches and apricots, and they're joined by a little soft toffee note. The finish is fresh cut grass and toffee.

A wonderful dram for the shade of the the midday summer sun.

4/5