12 years old, distilled 21st August 2002, 59.9% abv, first fill ex-bourbon barrel, 215 bottles

A lovely sweet nose of toffee, apple, pear and a touch of cinnamon. The body has stewed apples, pears, apricot and toffee - and again, a touch of cinnamon. The finish is sweet fruit notes (green apple, apricot) and toffee.

Water brings tight, thin whorling that lingers pleasantly - not quite mottling at the bottom of the glass, more a nest of snakes. The nose now has no cinnamon, but a little more of the stewed fruits and apricot. The body has more toffee, with a little less fruit and some tannic notes - tea? The finish gains tea-chest notes, and loses a little of the fruit.

A superb dram for before a meal - or during a meal - or after a meal. Not eating? Drink this. It'll do.

4/5