20 years old, distilled 5th March 1997, 53.5% abv, First Fill American Oak Pedro Ximinez Hogshead, 233 bottles, dram price E

The nose has blackberry and hard toffees. Quite closed. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has more blackberry and then mango and melon, with toffee in the background. The finish is long - melon and toffee, with a hint of lemon.

Water brings out thin rapidly expanding whorling that settles into brief mottling. The nose loses the fruit and gains an unexpected cured ham note. The body gains white grapes and quince, and loses the mango, and the lemon is a little more prominent. The finish has less toffee.

A chimera. With water it's a summer dram, after water it's autumnal.

3.5/5