12 years old, distilled 6th June 2007, 64.9% abv, First Fill Ex-Sherry Butt, 634 bottles, dram price C

The nose has sherry, smoked almonds, orange peel, sultanas, and hints of cinnamon. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has sherry, walnut, smoked almonds, orange peel, then cinnamon, nutmeg and chilli powder. The finish has sherry, nutmeg and chilli powder.

Water brings out thin, compact whorling that settles quickly into brief mottling. The nose gains more cinnamon, currants and some coffee notes. The body gains more chilli powder and some dark chocolate. The finish gains more chilli powder.

A sherry monster, in a cloak of spice. Big, powerful and well built - and quite nicely poised. It’s hard to fault technically, except for the dominance of the chilli powder.

One for winter evenings.

Technical score: 4/5

Personal preference: Just the one dram, thanks.