17 years old, distilled 25th August 2000, 60.2% abv, Refill Ex-Bourbon Barrel, 152 bottles, dram price C

The nose has liniment and then notes of crisps - ready salted at first, then hints of balsemic vinegar and a touch of mango. The mouthfeel is decent - smooth with no cling. The body has toffee, vanilla, fresh oak, then hints of salted caramel chocolates. The finish is quiet - toffee and fresh oak.

Water brings out thin, compact whorling that settles quickly into brief mottling. The nose gains vanilla and old leather furniture, and loses the crisps. The body gains - quite unexpectedly - fruit. Mango, apricot and orange peel but there are others in there too. There's also some ginger, but not much. The previous salted caramel is still there, but diminished. The finish is ginger and mango.

This is a deep dram which rewards attention. One to drink when you can give it that - perhaps with your whisky friends?

Technical score: 4/5

Personal preference: I'd have another dram.