20 years old, distilled 21st February, 52.7% abv, second-fill ex-bourbon hogshead, 189 bottles

The nose has cornflake dust, citrus zest, cloudy lemonade, and kiwi fruit. The mouth-feel is sharp, with no coating. The body has toasted granary bread, blackcurrant and hints of blueberry. The finish is sweet, soft and sharp - cornflakes and lemons.

Water brings thick, rapidly spreading whorling that settles into pleasing mottling at the bottom of the glass. The nose has gained fruit - mango and watermelon. The body has a similar improvement, with a honeyed note over cornflakes, kiwi fruit, melon and blackcurrant. The finish is much the same.

A superb dram, well matched with a good vanilla ice-cream.

4/5