24 years old, distilled 25th April 1995, 53.2% abv, First Fill Ex-Madeira Hogshead, 234 bottles, dram price G

The nose has raisins, burnt sugar, oranges, old leather and madeira wine. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has oranges, dark chocolate, madeira and hints of peach. The finish has peach, oranges, dark chocolate and ginger.

Water brings out tight, thin whorling that settles quickly into lingering mottling. The nose gains red berries, cherries and ginger, with the old leather becoming more pronounced. The body gains wood shavings, red berries, and more ginger. The finish gains more dark chocolate and cherries, and the ginger is slightly diminished.

A dram very much dominated by the wine cask, yet well integrated nonetheless. Less spicy after water, it’s a long finish that’s worked well.

One for autumn evenings.

Technical score: 4/5

Personal preference: I’d have another dram.

This whisky was provided by the SMWS in a preview session - thanks to them for that. Full editorial control has been retained in the tasting process.