SMWS Outturn 287 - Braw Beasties

SMWS G7.16 - Elixir of euphoriaIt’s a new year, and the holidays mean a late delivery. My colleague Matt can’t make it at all, so I have to hurry through the list on a Thursday night. London’s also missing five bottlings, which is easier on me but less good for everyone else! If you were hoping to see the 29, 53, 7, 46 or 112 then I’m afraid you’re out of luck. Sorry.

I did manage to taste the rest of the list. As is so often the case, it’s a mixed bag - overall a high standard, but my tongue was burning from spice a few times.

My favourite will probably surprise nobody - it’s the Girvan. Fruits, bread, rum, and polished wood - this is a real pleasure of a whisky. Closely on its heels is the Clynelish, which is young, fresh and sweet without ever being unbalanced or uninteresting. I’d like more than one bottle of both of these!

The Craigellachie has leather, tobacco and oranges - which I’m sure will be popular. And the Benrinnes has mango and other fruits - a superb nose, and it’s only held back by some spice after water. Both are highly recommended and I’d like a bottle of each.

As I sat racing through the list, others were going through their preview tasting tickets. It was interesting to hear the discussions - the Glen Grant seemed a little divisive, and there was some discussion as to whether the Old Pulteney or the Bunnahabhain was the better Oily and Coastal dram. (I preferred the Bunnahabhain.)

This is also the first time we see the new logo and labels. I’m ambivalent about the logo. The labels, however, have both good and bad changes. It’s good that they list both woods in the event of a second maturation, but I’d still like to see the age be smaller and the distillery/cask number be bigger. And using only colour on the label to show the flavour profile is an accessibility faux pax - colour blind people now have a harder time. Would it really be so difficult to write the flavour profile somewhere? But overall it’s an improvement on the old label, if only because we’ll not see dark stripes going behind the distillery number and name on some bottlings, making it hard to read...

53.308 - Let the tempest tout an’ blaw

30 years old, distilled 18th April 1989, 52.0% abv, Refill Ex-Sherry Butt, 186 bottles, dram price J

SMWS 53.308 - Let the tempest tout an’ blawThe nose has smoked bacon, grilled salmon, bitter chocolate and salted caramels - an unusual experience but somehow it works! The mouthfeel is decent but has little cling. The body has sherry smokey bacon crisps, marzipan, grilled salmon and then bitter chocolate. The finish is bitter chocolate, salmon and smokey bacon crisps.

Water brings out thick, compact whorling that settles quickly into brief mottling. The nose gains peat smoke and some lemon, but loses nothing. The body gains peat and ash, lemon juice and some hints of olives. The finish gains peat and lemon juice, with a hint of ash - and loses the salmon.

This is a big beast of a dram. Wonderfully balanced, with the sherry never dominant. The bitterness could be a bit too much for some, but I found it nicely conterpointed by the lemon and the smokey bacon.

One for summer nights.

Technical score: 5/5

Personal preference: I’d like a bottle.

97.22 - Emerald-masked triple thrill

29 years old, distilled 23rd April 1990, 57.5% abv, First Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel, 146 bottles, dram price J

SMWS 97.22 - Emerald-masked triple thrillThe nose has pine floorboards, brioche and some new make notes, but rapidly gives way to passion fruit and mango with a hint of gooseberry. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has passion fruit, mango, then citrus zest and a hint of zinc coated bicycle clips before croissants and new pine furniture notes sweep across the palate. Very light and fresh. The finish has passion fruit, zinc and gooseberry.

Water brings out thin, compact whorling that settles quickly into brief mottling. The nose gains more brioche and mango, and loses the new make notes completely. The body gains more pine and mango, and loses the gooseberry. The finish gains more mango and some pine, and loses the zinc. There’s also a hint of peppermint.

A fruity delight, balanced by some wood and pastry notes. For me, Littlemill often has a citrus zest and slightly zinc-like top note, which needs lots of flavour as a counterpoint - this dram manages that. It’s a pleasant window onto not only a closed distillery but also one of Scotland’s oldest distilleries. Sadly, that zinc note also reminds me that this was never my favourite Lowland malt experience. It’s remarkable that a 29 year old in a first fill bourbon cask can be this light, sweet and fruity - if that’s your style then this will satisfy. But I suspect many will value it more highly for its provenance than its flavours, which is rather a pity.

One for summer mornings - whisky for breakfast, anyone?

Technical score: 5/5

Personal preference: I’d have another dram.

SMWS Outturn 286 - Christmas Parcels

SMWS G6.9 - Listening to the frog chorusThe Society has previously put out a big list in November, followed by a much smaller Christmas Parcels list that’s mostly, um, parcels.

But this year, they’ve changed that and gone for a big - but still slightly smaller than November - list of 30 whiskies. And this doesn’t include some mid-month whiskies that will be coming out, including the traditional young Ardbeg bottling - a treat that no other bottler in the industry can get hold of. Unfortunately, a late delivery means I just didn’t have time to taste that - but I’d be doing you a disservice if I didn’t remind you it’s coming!

This list has a lot of Christmas spices. For a short while I thought that there may be something wrong with my palate - but swapping drams with Matt confirmed that this was the case.

The star of the list is the Port Dundas, which gently delivers fruits, leather and caramel from its toasted oak cask. This is the bottle that won the Society an award earlier this year, and it’s easy to see why.

At the other end of the spectrum comes the Glenturret - a return to the young peated ones we’ve had recently, which means dry earthy smoke and caramel, but this one is enhanced with pork crackling and floral notes. It’s the good kind of madness, and will no doubt sell out quickly.

I’d also like a bottle of the Glenlossie - which is a treat. Hazelnut, maple syrup, cherries and fruits of the forest hang in perfect balance. This dram really is brilliantly poised, with the port influence being so minimal that I didn’t even realise it at first.

An honourable mention should go to the Glen Deveron, which has fruits, dry earthiness and cinnamon in a very pleasing arrangement - a competent session dram.

The abundance of peat, sherry, port and toasted oak would be something of an embarrassment if the November list hadn’t primed us for it. Something for everyone here, but do remember that yet more will be arriving before Christmas!

As usual, Matt has the other half of the list over at The Dramble.

Season’s greetings - I hope you spend the time with those that matter to you, and a glass or two of something that makes the memories even better!

SMWS Outturn 285 - Big Party Animals

28.43 - Muscle-toned heft and punchIt’s the big one.

And size doesn’t mean compromising quality. Oh no.

Only two drams didn’t arrive in London - the Ardmore and the Glen Scotia. Of the 39 that did arrive, 9 of them are ones I’d like a bottle or more of, which is a remarkable ratio.

At the top of the list is the Tullibardine. Be honest, you weren’t expecting to read that, were you? Yet the delivery is perfect and the flavours complementary: dried fruits, Madeira, cinder toffee, dark chocolate and coffee grounds. It’s superb.

Next on the “more than one bottle” list is the Tomintoul. Another sherry monster, and only 7 years old. If the cask had been left longer, it would be far too much. It may have a little spirit on the nose, but everything else is superb. A lighter take on sherry, with peach, strawberry, apricot, dried apple - brilliant.

And the last on the podium is Rosdhu. Balsa wood and fruits - blackcurrant, pear, green apple, kiwi fruit, banana... It’s a sweet delight that shows grain doesn’t need to be old to be good.

There’s plenty in the “I’d like a bottle” category, too. For many the star will be the slightly bonkers Bunnahabhain, whose red wine cask brings a combination of pipe tobacco, soot, red berries and plums. It’s quite the combination! The Benrinnes is a steal, being perfectly matured at its age. It delivers peach, sponge cake, green apples and young oak. The Old Pulteney has rock pools, candle wax, pear, coconut and liniment - it’ll sell quickly. The Caol Ila is seafood barbecues, lemon, driftwood barbecues and ash. A familiar Coal Ila, yet lovely all the same. The Glentauchers is the other end of the spectrum - fresh cut grass, rosewater, pears, sponge cake. Brilliantly balanced and delightfully light. And finally the Glendronach has caramel, créme brûlée, cinder toffee and oranges. Softer and sweeter without water, bigger and heavier with it, it’s the best of both sherried worlds.

Honourable mentions? The unusual peated Allt-a-Bhainne, the elegant Glenfarclas, the first unpeated Glenturret for a while, and the Auchentoshan should all be investigated. There’s a lot of good whisky to go around... And we're not even at the end of the year yet!

Matt's reviews are available over at The Dramble, as per usual. The list was divided up randomly, but I think that worked in my favour this time - hence going back the next day to taste the other half! That having been said, he still got some of his favourite distilleries, so it all worked out well.

EU Flag

EU Flag (backlit)

An EU flag, backlit by sun in a cloudy sky. Taken at the October 2018 March for a People's Vote, and it seems somehow both poignant and defiant.

SMWS Outturn 284 - Gather in Happiness

SMWS 36.167 - Nuts in velvetIt often seems like I’m saying “this is a great list”.

So the bad news is that the SMWS have plainly been holding out on us – they’ve saved a lot of good casks for the end of the year!

My only possible complaint could be that two of the whiskies didn’t turn up in time for the preview tasting – neither the Linkwood (39) nor the North British (G1) were around. You might expect that not having the North British would colour my perceptions, but there were so many good whiskies that it’s hard to hold that grudge.

With six of the Deep Rich & Dried Fruits category and five bottles in the various peated categories, they’re really spoiling us.

The star of the list for me was the Benrinnes, which is a superb example of what happens when good spirit sits in a good cask. Plenty of fruit with a little vanilla and fudge, I want more than one bottle! And at the other end of the spectrum sits the Glenturret, with farmyard notes and maple syrup joined by lemon and toffee. Another one that would clog up my shelves with multiple bottles if I could...

Moving down to the ones I’d be happy with a bottle of, let’s start with the Glenfarclas – oranges, old oak, leather, with more fruit and dark chocolate. That sherry finish worked brilliantly for this whisky. Then there’s the Glendronach, which is another sherry bomb from a PX finish. Dried apricots, sultanas, caramel and pineapple with hints of leather make this a very attractive dram. Moving to peat, the Ardmore is superb – beach bonfires, apples, peach and ash. Then there’s a great Caol Ila, which has black bun, bonfire smoke, toffee and hints of lemon. Finally, there’s a St George’s that provides bonfire smoke, pencil shavings, toffee and calamine lotion.

It seems that I’ve gone for the big extremes, but they really are good. That having been said, the scores were well above average and there’s plenty to enjoy. If I had to pick some “runners up” they’d be the Clynelish and the Craigellachie. The Clynelish has is all of the lemon, pineapple and wax what you’d expect from a Clynelish of its age; the Craigellachie has a rich balance of honeycomb, vanilla and cinnamon.

I managed to try everything that had arrived in London, knowing that we’ve got a bigger list coming out soon. If it can keep up this level of quality, then we’d best all get ourselves bankruptcy lawyers…

I was fortunate enough to try meet up with Matt from The Dramble for this tasting, which has no doubt improved my notes. His notes can be found here, and are excellent as usual. (Judging by Matt's reaction on the day he'd be especially grateful if none of you bought the Glenturret. It's his precious...)

SMWS Outturn 283 - Founder Favourites

SMWS 137.3 - Smouldering EnglishnessThe October list is definitely above average - plenty to recommend!

The star is the English Whisky Company’s peated expression, which has a great balance of sweet fruit and smoke. I’d like more than one bottle of it, and it scores a full five.

There are two others I’d be happy to have more than one bottle of. The superb Inchmurrin delivers tropical fruits, and is only marred by a slight acetal note. Fortunately, that goes with water. The North British is from a curious cask that offers leather and deep wood that’s more like a Speyside than a grain, so has the attraction of being an oddity as well as a superb dram.

Finally, I’d like a bottle of the Clynelish. It has banana, pineapple and waxed lemons and is what I want from a young bourbon Clynelish.

An honourable mention must go to the Glenfarclas, which is a superb sherry finish but just a bit too spicy for me.

As always, Matt has the other half of the list over at The Dramble.

SMWS Outturn 282 - Colourful Exploration

SMWS 54.77 - A Spanish spice whackSeptember’s list has some great whiskies on it. There are four that I want bottles of...

The star of the list is the Aberlour - a superb sherried dram that has a magnificent balance of flavours. I didn’t just want a bottle, but I also gave it the top technical score of 5 - the first 5 for a while! On the other end of the flavour scale is the superb lemon-fest Glenlivet, which is a sweet and succulent dram. In a similar mould is the banana, pineapple and pepprmint of the Glendullan. And finally, there’s cinder toffee, sultanas, leather and fresh oak in the peated Glenturret.

Frankly, the four of them make for a pretty stunning tasting that covers most bases.

As always, the other half of the list has been tasted by Matt at The Dramble, so if it’s not in the list below then head on over there for it.

33.137 - Campfire marshmallows on singed sticks

10 years old, distilled 27th November 2008, 59.9% abv, First Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel, 231 bottles, dram price F

This whisky was released just for The Gathering events in September 2019, and is only available at SMWS venues and associated events.

SMWS 33.137 - Campfire marshmallows on singed sticksThe nose has lemon and lime chew sweets in a perfect balance, with a hint of smoke. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body leads with lemon, has less lime, then toffee and finally the smoke appears towards the end of the dram. The finish has lemon and soft smoke that builds as your tongue dries.

Water brings out thin, rapidly expanding whorling that settles into lingering mottling. The nose gains toffee but loses the lime. The body gains lemon and loses the lime, also gaining burnt cardboard towards the finish. The finish has more smoke and loses a little of the lemon, gaining ash.

I wish I hadn’t added water. It didn’t ruin it - it was still perfectly acceptable - but it was so much better before water.

One for summer evenings.

Technical score: 4.5/5

Personal preference: I’d like more than one bottle.

This whisky was provided by the SMWS in a preview session - thanks to them for that. Full editorial control has been retained in the tasting process.

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