22 years old, distilled 11th December 1992, 52.6% abv, first fill ex-sherry hogshead, 241 bottles

The nose has plenty of flavours - fennel, cigar boxes, wooden palettes of oranges and a hint of greenhouses in summer. The mouthfeel is expanding and coating, quite smooth. The body has a little sharp cinnamon, then tobacco and pork crackling. There's also a very slight hint of the embers of an old fire. The finish has demerara sugar and cigar boxes.

Water brings out thick, lingering whorling - very nice. The nose now gains a little toffee, and loses the cigar boxes. After a while, watermelon also appears. The body has more fruit too - the cigar boxes are there now, but also peaches and watermelon. Th cinnamon is still present, but less pronounced. The finish has gained a slightly fruity sweetness.

A decent dram that needs time - something that develops, and deserves attention. Get a watchglass and a beer, and don't hurry between sips.

4/5