12 years old, 13th October 2008, 63.6% abv, First Fill Ex-Oloroso Hogshead, 332 bottles, dram price D

The nose has oranges, lemons and coffee grinds. The body has orange marmalade, brandy, coffee grinds and struck matches. The finish has coffee grinds and struck matches.

Water brings out tight, thin whorling that lingers for a short while as mottling. The nose gains nutmeg and cloves, and loses the coffee grinds. The body gains nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon and toffee and loses some of the coffee grinds. (The sulphur remains.) The finish gains nutmeg and cloves, and loses the coffee grinds.

A curious dram. A sherry bomb, but it lacks the balance and the sulphur will be contentious. I’m not convinced it held together, and the nose unwatered was particularly unbalanced. In its favour, it was never hot despite the spice flavours.

One for winter evenings after dinner.

Technical score: 2/5

Personal preference: Just the one dram, thanks.

This whisky was provided by the SMWS in a preview session - thanks to them for that. Full editorial control has been retained in the tasting process.