10 years old, distilled 23rd July 2008, 59.5% abv, Refill Ex-Bourbon Barrel, 214 bottles, dram price B

The nose has carbolic soap, old oak furniture, hot cross buns and honey. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has honey, hot cross buns, old oak and some toasted bread. The finish has cinnamon, old oak and hints of honey.

Water brings out thin, rapidly expanding whorling that dissipates quickly without mottling. The nose gains tar and ash, and some fennel seeds. The honey and hot cross buns are gone. The body gains ash and fennel seeds, charred wood, cumin and liquorice. The finish gains charred wood, liquorice and ash and loses the honey.

A curious balance at first, all pretence of which is cast aside when water is added. It emerges as an ashy, peated dram. It was such a sudden change that it felt like a breach of the trade descriptions act!

One for autumnal evenings.

Technical score: 3/5

Personal preference: Just the one dram, thanks.

This whisky was provided by the SMWS in a preview session - thanks to them for that. Full editorial control has been retained in the tasting process.