21 years old, distilled 8th November 1996, 54.7% abv, First Fill Ex-Sherry Butt, 532 bottles, dram price J

I rarely comment on colour, as I feel it has little bearing on the whisky. However, this one bears a shade that it fully in sync with its flavours, and a has a slight red burnish to its golden tones.

The nose has sultanas, raisins, fruit cake, old oak and hints - but only hints - of sulphur. The mouthfeel is decent with no cling. The body has fruit cake and old oak and mahogany furniture, then a hint of sulphur towards the end. No wonder they said gunpowder! The finish is old oak furniture, raisins and sulphur.

Water brings out thin, rapidly expanding whorling that settles into brief mottling. The nose gains old oak notes, and loses some of the sultanas. The body gains more oak notes and a little dark coffee hint. The finish gains coffee grinds and sea salt.

An exemplar of this style of whisky. It's worked well with the wood.

One for winter firesides.

Technical score: 4.5/5

Personal preference: I'd like more than one bottle.